Starting in January 2015 we are posting fly tying patterns as provided by our members. With luck and perseverance we will collect may patterns to share with our club members. Those wishing wishing to contribute please contact Rick Newman.
Dry Fly and Emerger Tying Clinic for Spokane Fly Fishers 2/8/2017
presented by Skip Morris
Pictures of flies follow descriptions.
March Brown Spider Sylvester Nemes
HOOK: Heavy wire, standard length, sizes 16 to 12
THREAD: Orange 6/0 or 8/0
RIB: Oval Gold Tinsel small or fine depending on hook size
BODY: Hare’s Mask Dubbed
HACKLE: Mottled-brown hen saddle or hen back. Natural-brown partridge flank can also be used.
Attach the thread and wind it to the bend of the hook.
Lightly dub the hook to a point about a hook eye distant from the back of the hook eye.
Strip the lower side of the feather just behind the eye of the hook.
Attach the hackle at this point with the stem of the feather rather than the tip of the feather.
The thread should be next to the body rather than behind the eye.
Wind the feather towards the body in three or four turns, then wind the thread forward through it to strongly secure it.
Morris Emerger, PMD Skip Morris
HOOK: Light wire, humped shank (pupa/emerger hook), sizes 18 to 14
THREAD: Yellow 8/0
TAIL: Mottled-brown hen saddle or hen back.
RIB: Fine gold wire.
ABDOMEN: Pheasant-tail fibers.
THORAX: Soft-yellow buoyant synthetic dubbing (Superfine Dry Fly, poly …).
WING and BURST SHUCK: Bleached or natural-light deer hair, preferably coastal deer hair. Make a fan of the tips, angling forward slightly and trim the butts straight across over the rear of the thorax.
SKIP’S COMMENTS: My stand-by emerges pattern, with alteration mainly in size and colors, for nearly all mayfly hatches. It is dead center between the Quigley Cripple and the Compara-dun.
GULPER SPECIAL Al Troth
HOOK: Light wire, standard length or 1x long, sizes 22 to 10.
THREAD: Eight-ought or 6/0 in the bodies color.
PARACHUTE WING: White, yellow, pink, chartreuse, back or red fly yarn. I usually go with white or yellow.
HACKLE: Any color, often grizzly.
BODY: Dubbing to match the color of the natural.
SKIP’S COMMENTS: A proven standard for imitating hatching mayflies.
Skip’s Promise, Hopper Skip Morris
HOOK: Standard to heavy wire, 2x long, straight or slow curve shank.
THREAD: Yellow 6/0 or 3/0.
BODY: Coarse, buoyant synthetic yellow dubbing.
LEGS: Barred-yellow rubber strand — be sure to add the leg-strands before adding the wing.
WING: Natural elk hair.
SKIP’S COMMENTS: Simple as sin, but works on really picky trout regardless.
No pictures for these as we didn’t tie any.
Royal Wulff Lee Wulff
HOOK: Light wire, standard length to 1x long sizes 18 to 10.
THREAD: Black 8/0 or 6/0.
WINGS: White calf tail or calf body.
TAIL: Natural-brown buck tail.
BODY: Peacock herl bands at both ends of a red-floss waist.
HACKLE: Brown, heavy. If you trim a “V” out of the fibers underneath you’ll probably hook more trout.
COMMENTS: Pretty fly, ultra popular dry fly, and just right for choppy quick water and amenable trout
Skaddis Dark Skip Morris
HOOK: Light wire, standard length to 1x long, sizes 20 to 10.
THREAD: Brown 8/0 or similar size.
ABDOMEN: Buoyant synthetic dubbing (Fly Rite, Superfine Dry Fly….)
WING: Yellow poly yarn over brown poly yarn.
HACKLE: One brown dry fly hackle spiraled over the thorax.
THORAX: Same dubbing as the abdomen.
SKIP’S COMMENTS: I’ve trusted the Skaddis for years for caddis and small stonefly
Hodson’s Rainbow Bright
List of Materials:
Hook: DaiRiki (710) #4-#12
Thread: Ultra Thread 140 or 70 – Lime Green, Yellow, Purple or Blue
Tail – Yellow Krystal Flash
Body – 3 Equal Segments
1. UV Purple Ice Dub
2. Blue Steelie Ice Dub
3. Caddis Green Ice Dub
Legs – Silicone Black Barred on Chartreuse
Head – Black Foam mm – Folded over at Head
Post – Yellow 2mm Foam
Wing: MFC Widow’s Web Silver
1. Pinch barb
2. Wrap thread on the hook (do not crowd the head)
3. Tie in Tail (6 Strands of Yellow Krystal Flash)
4. Wrap thread back to front
5. Dub body 1⁄3 of the way towards the back with Green Ice Dub
6. Dub another 1/3 towards the back after the Green with Blue Steelie Ice Dub
7. Dub the final 1/3 towards the back after the Blue with Purple Ice Dub
8. Tie in Black Foam (cut to width of hook gap and 2x length of shank of hook)
A. Leave hook gap length past bend of hook
9. Create a gap with foam on top of hook by wrapping 4x
10. Tie in one leg at a time (2x wraps per leg)
11. Dub Purple Ice Dub over foam
12. Dub blue under foam to green part of body
13. Dub green under foam towards head
14. Tie in black foam
A. Leave hook gap length past bend of hook
15. Tie in one leg at a time (2x wraps per leg)
16. Tie in Widow’s Web
17. Fold over and wrap widow’s web 2x
18. Sparsely dub green over thread (2x wrap)
19. Fold foam towards back creating a bullet head (foam over eye of hook)
20. Tie in small piece of yellow foam
Finish Rainbow Bright
21. Whip Finish 2-3x at eye of hook under foam and legs
22. Trim wing case (have overhang a hook gap past foam)
23. Trim foam
A. Can round corners of foam if you’d like
24. Cut tail 3x hook gap
FLY SUBMITTED BY MIKE BERUBE
Hook: Tiemco 2487 or 2457, 14 or whatever you want
Weight: Bead, 7/64, white and 0.015 lead wire
Rib: Small copper wire
Bubble: Several strands of pearl Flashabou
Body: Dubbing, green or tan
Hackle: Whiting hen, furnace, etc.
Step 1. Attach thread near bead.
Step 2. Tie in copper wire and wrap down to the bend of hook.
Step 3. Attach several pieces of pearl Flashabou (10 to 14) and wrap down to bend. Let
them hang out back.
Step 4 Bob put in four turns of lead behind the bead, but you can put in as many as you want.
You can slide the lead into the bead.
Dub body (Hairline: Mixed pale yellow, caddis green, bright green, light green, a little
Ice Dub). You can vary the color of the body using hair’s ear.
Pull Flashabou over the top to simulate gas bubbles when insect comes to surface or
when the female swims down to lay eggs. Spiral rib forward over the Flashabou in six
or seven turns. Tie off behind bead. Trim excess materials.
Bob likes using a Whiting Hebert-Miner hen hackle, but you can use others if you can
find them. Starling, if long enough, partridge is probably too long or anything else is
Put on two turns of hackle and tie it off. Use heat shrink tubing that is a little larger
than the bead to push the hackle back.
Whip finish behind the bead, and trim thread. Bob puts a black dot on the bead to
simulate eyes. He uses an oil based fine pen that he bought from an art store. It takes
24 hours to dry, so he skipped that step on the fly he gave me to take home.
Caddis flies are an important food for fish, which makes them important for the fly angler. BobScheidt, Fresno, California was demonstrating this pattern at the 2012 Northwest Fly Tyer Expo in Albany, Oregon. He caught fish in a lot of places with this fly.
WILCOX’S LITTLE GREEN MACHINE
Submitted by Mike Berube
Hook: Mustad 3906, sizes 24 to 14.
Head: copper bead sized to hook.
Thread: Size 8/0 (70 denier)—light gray thread for gray and chartreuse abdomens, black thread for pheasant tail abdomens.
Tail: Pheasant tail fibers.
Abdomen: Micro Tubing—chartreuse, pheasant tail, gray, or red.
Rib: Small Ultra Wire, color to match the abdomen.
Wing case: Pearl Fire-Fly or micro Flashabou.
Gills: White Antron fibers.
Thorax: Olive brown Ice Dub.
1. Debarb hook, slide on bead small hole towards the hook eye, and place in vice.
2. Start thread at bead and wrap to bend in hook shank.
3. Tie in 4-5 pheasant tail fibers at bend. Tail should be gap length long. Continue up the shank tying in pheasant by wrapping thread all the way to the bead. Take 2-3 wraps of the pheasant tail butts around the hook at the bead tie off and trim butts. This will build the body a bit.
4. Tie in micro tubing at bead and wrap thread back to tail tie in point stretching tubing slightly. Tubing is tied in under hook.
5. Return thread to bead and repeat step 4 with the rib. Return thread to bead.
6. Start wrapping micro tubing up shank towards the eye. Stretch slightly at first then let up. This will form a tapered body. Stop behind bead and tie off.
7. Reverse wrap rib to bead and tie off.
8. Tie in pearl mylar at bead and go back about an 1/8 inch and tie off. Leave the mylar hang there, it will be folded over as the wing-case.
9. Take a sparse 1 inch piece of antron and tie in mid-way between bead and mylar to form the wing buds.
10. Apply light dubbing to thread , make 2-3 turns of dubbing behind the wing buds, fig-ure eight across the wing buds, then 2-3 turns in front against bead.
11. Pull the mylar over the wing buds/ dubbing and tie off, cut off mylar and whip finish.
12. Trim the antron down within a 16th of an inch to the thorax to form the wing buds.
13. Add water and fish.
BWO BIOT EMERGER Submitted by Mike Berube
Hook: Sz 14-18
Thread: Gray 8/0
Tail/Shuck: Gold Zelon
Body: Olive Goose biot
Post: White Antron post material Thorax: Gray fine dubbing Hackle: Blue dun dry fly
These materials can be changed to match your favorite hatch.
1. De-barb your hook and place in vise.
2. Dress the hook shank with thread, start at eye and wrap back to the point above the hook point. This is the tie in point for the shuck.
3. Cut a piece of zelon about an inch long, thin the material out to about 8-10 strands, you don’t want the shuck too thick. Tie the zelon in at the tie in point on top of the hook. To keep the material on top of the hook lift up on the material as you wrap the thread. Wrap thread to about the point above the barb. Leave thread here and trim shuck to about 1⁄4 inch. Pull the material tight but don’t cut the traditional way. Holding the material tight rub one of the scissor blades against the material to cut. This will give an uneven cut, looking more natural.
4. Choose a biot. Hold the tip of the biot to the hook. Angle it slightly to the rear on your side of the hook at the tie in point. The raised rib should also be on your side, as you wrap it, it will form a nicely segmented body. Wrap the biot with slightly overlapping wraps to the hook eye stopping at the 75% point. Secure it with three tight wraps and trim butt. This is the tie in point for the post.
5. Now you need to tie in a post. Cut a piece of antron about 2.5-3 inches long. The post does not need to be too thick, so thin it out a bit. The exact amount you need comes with trial and error, but try a bunch about the size of a match stick. When the thread is wrapped it will compress it to the right size. It should be thick enough to support the hackle. Tie the post in by holding the antron on top of the hook at the tie in point. Make 4 wraps of thread over each other in the middle of the antron, grab the ends and lift forming one post. You have doubled the material over on itself. Holding the material straight up make 5-6 wraps of thread directly at the base of the post in front of and behind it, this will help stand it up. Now make wraps of thread up the post to strengthen it. You’ll want to 10-15 wraps up the post and bring the thread back down with a couple. Your post should be standing up straight. Leave the thread at the base of the post
6. Next, you’ll form the thorax with dubbing. Apply the dubbing sparingly to the thread. You’ll want about 2 inches of dubbing on the thread. Begin dubbing back to cover biot butt, then back by the post base to the hook eye and back to the pose base. You should have a nice tightly formed thorax. Leave thread hanging at the base of the post, your thread will not go around the hook shank again. The fly will be finished around the post.
7. Choose your hackle to match the size of the hook. Prep the hack by removing any fluff at the butt and trim/pull off barbs leaving about a 1⁄4 inch of bare stem. Hold the stem butt up against the post, on your side, with good side facing you. Secure it to the post with 5-6 wraps up the post and back down. Leave the thread hanging on your side at the base of the post. (This step is optional. Using your bodkin apply head cement to the post sparingly. This will help make a more durable fly by gluing the hackle to the post as you wrap.) Begin wrapping the hackle with the first wrap going to the top of the wraps of thread on the post and wrap down with 5-6 wraps down the post. Stop with the hackle tip on your side. Secure the hackle with 2-3 wraps of thread around the base of the post. Trim the hackle close to the base of the post.
8. Finish the fly by whip finishing around the base of the post. 3-4 wraps should work. Trim the post to de- sired length.
by Mike Melmoth
Hook: TMC 5263 size 6 or 8
Bead: 5/32 Tungsten in fl. orange, pink or red
Thread: 6/0 black/ brown/ olive
Tail: Marabou length of hook shaft, black/ brown/ olive
Flash: Holographic fiber 1⁄2” longer than tail
Body: Marabou overlaid with Uni-Mohair, black/ brown/ olive to 75% of shaft length Collar: spun deer body hair trimmed to point of hook
Hackle: black or badger size 12 0r 14
Tie in at 75% or shaft and wrap to start of bend. Coat with head cement. Tie in tail and flash with 2 or 3 wraps. Wrap excess material to 75% of hook, spiral thread to that point and wrap 2 or 3 times. Cut off excess materials and spiral thread back to bend in hook. Tie in Marabou with 2 or 3 wraps and advance thread over tail or mohair to 75% point. Wrap mohair evenly to thread, wrap back 2 two or 3 wraps, then back to thread, wrap 2 or 3 times and add a half hitch. Cover end with head cement and advance thread to center of bare hook. Cut a bunch of body hair large enough to fill 25% of hook length as thick as you desire. I make mine rela- tively heavy. Pinch center of hair to center of bare hook, wrap lightly with two wraps, add third wrap snugly with downward pull on thread allowing hair to flair and spin around the hook. Add 2 to 4 wraps of thread being careful to wiggle thread down through hair to avoid trapping hair. Fold hair toward bend in hook and wrap 2 or 3 wraps snugly. Tie in flaired hackle and wrap 1 or 2 times behind the bead. Whip finish behind bead and add a drop of head cement. I use one bead on the size 8 hook and 2 beads on the size 6 hook for deeper trolling. This is a good fly for bass as well as trout. I had to trim the tail a little shorter for trout as I was getting too many short strikes. Larger hackle can be used, but it is for looks only on this fly and does not represent gills or legs unless you use a wooley bugger hackle. Play with it and you can make it a trout fly or a strictly bass fly. Tied on a 1/0 hook it even attracted pike. For this size several stacks of hair were needed to make the collar.
This is a fly I originated.
It caught a number of bass and a few trout up at Diamond Lake in the spring.